Omotepe Island, Nicaragua
March 11-18, 2012
Omotepe. At first, we were a little blind to its treasure. But soon, Omotepe lulls you into its sleepy charms and it's probably a place you'll end up staying longer than you planned. We came for a few nights and ended up staying 8 days! The island of Omotepe sits in the centre of the extremely large Lake Nicaragua and is the only island in the world that was formed by two volcanoes in a fresh water lake. We opted for the shortest ferry ride which took 1 hour to cross from mainland to the island but there are two other routes that take between 6 and 10 hours which gives you an idea to the size of the lake. One of the neat things about Omotepe is that many of the best hidden gems like shops, restaurants or lodging is spread throughout the island, which makes finding them a nice surprise. The people here are very friendly, humble and laid back. Nobody is in a hurry for anything. Omotempe has a certain kind of flavor and feeling that you soon discover is unique here and it feels a world away from the other towns and cities of Nicaragua, perhaps because its so isolated. If you don't loose yourself there, you just might find yourself instead.
Getting to Omotepe
The type of vessel you cross to Omotepe depends on the day and anything goes, literally! Anything from the official ferry to a small motor boat are the possibilities!
Port Town of Moyogalpa
Moyogalpa is the major port town where all the boats dock. Its the largest town on the island (which is not very big) and is located with Volcan Concepcion which is still an active volcano. The town is mostly useful for services and shops to stock up. There isn't anything particularly special about the town but it was a good place to get organized when you arrive without a plan like we did.
Our Accommodations - The American Hotel and Cafe
We found a good place along main street called The American Hotel and Cafe. It didn't look like much from the outside but the rooms were huge (a nice luxury) and it had hot water showers (rare)!
The Corner House B&B and Cafe
The Corner House B&B was an amazing gem owned by a young American couple. They served up real organic coffee and it was good! All their food was sourced from locals that was either natural or organic and they offered fresh pastry everyday. We think it would also be a great place to stay.
Punta Jesus Maria
The Punta Jesus Maria is a narrow point of sand that stretches out into Lake Nicaragua which can reach as far as 1 kilometer into the lake during dry season and you can walk on this strip of sand with water splashing from both the left and the right. We rented bicycles and rode out to see the point which was a 4km trip one way. It was nice but very hot!
Santa Cruz, Omotepe
After a few days in the port town, we wanted to explore more of the island and moved onto a location near the town of Santa Cruz. This area is much more isolated with much fewer shops and services and the ones that are here, you must trek a long way to reach so its best to stock up before arriving. Santa Cruz is located on the other half of the island where the smaller Volcan Maderas is situated.
Our Accommodations - Hotel El Encanto and Hotel El Porvanir
We stayed at two different hotels during our time here. Our first few nights were spent at Hotel El Encanto which is a working farm with four rooms and a good view of the volcano. We also stayed at Hotel El Porvanir which was definately a favorite. It's located in a natural reserve and the grounds of the hotel are filled with a beautiful garden with a fantastic view of the volcano. They have an onsite restaurant that serves good dishes at a good prices.
An Example of the Corner Store
Literally, the "corner store". As you can see, there is nothing else around. We were able to buy drinks, processed foods like cookies and crackers here and sometimes fruit. Otherwise, finding food meant eating at your hotel.
Zopilote The Organic Tienda On Wheels!
Down the street from us, was a hostel that set up a tienda (store) inside of a neat old school bus. They sell all natural and organic products like breads, honey, marmalades and neat jewelery.
Agua de Ojo - "Eye of the Water"
Lake Nicaragua was not particularly inviting to swim in because it was dark and muddy but we were recommended a day trip to a place called Agua de Ojo. A natural volcanic spring fed swimming hole where the water was crystal clear. We rented bicycles and rode in the scorching heat towards our destination, our bodies dreaming of the water! When we finally arrived, it was indeed like a little mini Eden (complete with snack bar, of course!).